The Perth Project

Hello, What’s Your Name?
A three week adventure around Viet Nam

I’m sure when I said to Niki 7 months ago “lets go to Vietnam for our honeymoon”, she had no idea was she was signing up for. I think I’m hugely to blame for that. For instance before we arrived she would talk about lazily sleeping on the beach, sipping cocktails, eating fantastic gourmet Vietnamese food, perhaps even sipping delicious French influenced coffee. You could see in her eyes the blue waters lapping against the perfect white sands of the South China Sea, she had dreamt and imagined Vietnam into perfection – I never thought once to maybe suggest it wouldn’t be so relaxing. However the only thing I saw in her eyes as we stood at an intersection in central Hanoi on our second day was fear, absolute bone shaking fear, shadowed by trembling tears in the background and a deadly look  burning into me saying  “Peter where the hell is my relaxing honeymoon you bastard?!”

Rule No. 1 of being married – Don’t take your new wife to Ha Noi for their honeymoon.

Niki and I arrived into Hanoi after our two week long stay in Bali for our wedding in Ubud. We did the usual budget flights with Air Asia and arrived to a small airport in the middle of farmland. You know you’re in the sticks when you see a couple of cows grazing at the end of airstrip.  Our first introduction to Viet Nam and to the dodgy operators that we had read about would be a slow and steady local bus we took to the city centre. The main benefit of the bus was easily being that the cost was a mere $3 instead of the $30 the taxis were after. As we travelled towards Hanoi we gained a small glimpse into local life, with bikes carrying cages of pigs, cows grazing on the side of the road, big concrete flyovers merging into dirt tracks and slow boats working along the mighty Song Hong (Red River).I was watching our route on the map, a bit of annoying habit of mine, and I knew that we were getting close to our drop off point. However it was hard to keep track of which road was what with road names changing every hundred metres, so when we stopped earlier than I expected and a bunch of touts got on the bus to tell us the bus stopped here, it was game time. Niki was quick to get up and begin getting her stuff, however something wasn’t right. None of the locals were moving and I’m sure I read somewhere months ago that it stopped in town. The touts were yelling at us that we had to get off and they would take us on their bikes into town, they even tried to pick up Niki’s bag. When we said “we weren’t moving and that no one else was moving” they got even more demanding. The two other tourists on the bus were also being hounded. Eventually they got the point and jumped off – just for us to go 2 blocks over and be nicely dropped of outside the Opera House to more opportunistic touts! – At least I knew where we were now and a 15 minute walk later we came upon the hotel we wanted to stay at, unfortunately though they must not have known we were coming as they had shut up shop months before (Spring Hotel).

Opting for plan B instead, we wandered over to the Especen Hotel located down a small alley near St Joseph Cathedral. This great little hotel had clean and spacious rooms starting at about $20us a night. So after two flights, a night in KL, a long slow bus trip, some heavy handed touts and one closed hotel, we were stretching out on a big double bed smiling that we finally made it to Viet Nam. This is about the time the Parasite known as Giardia kicked in and boy did it make its presence known.  I keeled over with cramps, my stomach made evacuation preparations and my brain started sending out emails to other parts of the body to bring them up to pace on a desperate situation. This happy little bug would haunt me for the next 2 weeks and would randomly make me run back to the hotel in need of a bathroom that I could camp out in. With this I make a heartfelt apology to any tourists or Vietnamese that I rudely barged passed on my great escape to the bathroom.

With Giardia on the mind, we rarely ventured far from the hotel on this day, instead opting to wander the authentic alleyways full of local characters doing everything from cutting hair to stirring large pots of Pho, a local flavoursome broth of goodness. We ate at alocal cafe for Lunch and Dinner know as La Place – yes an LP recommendation. The food was divine, with a selection of gourmet Vietnamese meals such as Chicken and Mango rice, pho, crepes and great fruit juices. The walls were covered in propaganda and 1940′s coffee posters. This is defiantly were the “cool” kids of Hanoi hung out, with writers typing away whilst sipping hot cups of Vietnamese coffee. Unfortunately thou, when we came back for dinner Niki found something that looked liked a finger nail in her juice…so what does any normal grossed out person who is absolutely appalled with this do? They pay their bill quietly and come back for lunch the next day – the food was just so damn good!

As the sun set for the day and the dark stormy weather closed in around us, the thunder and lighting made it’s ominous introduction. Within an hour a tropical thunderstorm was upon us and as we sat on our balcony feeling very unimportant in the whole picture of the world, I knew our three week travels through the ever resilient Vietnam would be humbling. Our adventures would take us from Hanoi to the world heritage listed Halong Bay, up to mountainous Sapa to the beach havens of Hoi and Hue, before trekking south to Nha Trang to catch up with friends and concluding in Saigon (Ho Chi Minh). With images of what laid ahead floating through my mind, I got up and made a mad dash for the bathroom…

The Word for Today

Pho (Noun): A Backpackers essential. The cheapest and more hearty dish you can get in Vietnam. Found in most street stalls and budget restaurants.

Lonely Planet Vietnam Guidebooks on Sale

Popularity: 18% [?]

Week 15 of the Perth Project.

When you think of Penguins, I’m sure you’d agree with me that one of three images comes to mind. The first being of a small black and white flightless bird who enjoys playing on ice slides in Antarctica. Secondly a gender confused penguin who apparently has happy feet and thirdly, an ageing small fat man who likes to dress in a  penguin suit, and equally as mad as this may sound, to chase a man who dresses like a bat. Strange world we live in that’s for sure. Anyway with all these crazy penguin notions, it bring us to the 15th week of the Perth Project and  last week I had the opportunity to visit Penguin Island for the first time in the 20 years that I have lived in Perth. In fact, if I was honest with you all, I didn’t even know that we had penguins in this hot state of ours. Yet here I was heading off to explore this small island off Rockingham, about an hour south of Perth.

As part of my science degree in ecotourism, I get to try a range of exciting activities such as catching birds, handling reptiles and observing our black and white friends. Sadly Niki couldn’t make this one, so I was on my own… surrounded by 20 other students. We arrived down at the jetty at about 12.30 and boarded a small floating device, barely recognizable as a boat. It was more like an oversized tub, yet the captain was in good spirits and introduced the island. The best news I had heard all day, and it has crossed my mind that morning, was that there were no snakes on this island. I had to cusp my hand to my mouth to stop the big whopppeeeee; I’m not a great fan of snakes you see. As we approached this small island, you could hear and see the hundreds of birds that call this small green island home. It was incredible; I’ve never seen so many species of birds in the wild, or in one spot before. They were thriving on this protected island.

As we were a student group, we had a quick educational talk from the ranger about what ecotourism developments were happening on the island and a little about the history, for example lets talk toilets. The toilet systems uses an enzyme that breaks down the waste to a point where it’s safe to then disperse along the gardens. Apparently they did this one year and they had a crop of tomatoes grow from it…need I say more.

Penguin Island is home to 3 pelican colonies, which I was very excited about. I’ve always been fascinated with these birds since feeding them as a kid up in Kalbarri, and I was enthralled at the option to get up and close with them.  They are a large majestic bird that is incredible to see and even more amazing when there are hundreds flying and “talking” around you, almost intimidating. Apparently the pelicans only arrived a few years back, this was due to being displaced due to development in Mandurah.  After walking along the board walks and viewing these mighty birds, I headed along the beach on the west side. The beach was dotted with craggy rocks and was  currently being bombarded by dramatic waves on this overcast day. Fascinatingly, there was evidence of fossilized root systems from trees in some of the rock formations. Apparently the current beach of Western Australia extended for another 15km past Rottnest – who says global warming has never happened before?

After our walk and a quick lunch in the picnic area ( make sure to bring your lunch across as there are no shops on the island), we headed into the Penguin Discovery Centre. The attraction was home to about 12 penguins that were unfit to return to the wild. Known as fairy penguins, these penguins are the smallest species  of penguins.  Here is a  small little fact for you, they pick a mate for life. However they will pick another partner if one dies or they will divorce if one is a bad parent. The enclosure has a great viewing platform and it is well worth visiting during feeding times, as you get a really good spiel on the penguins and the islands. Unlike Philip Island in Victoria, the wild penguins that do come ashore at night to breed or sleep are not viewable to tourists. However if you look closely into lower shrubs during the day you might in fact see one sleeping or guarding their young ones.

Once we finished cooing the penguins, we had the opportunity to coo the sea lions and dolphins that inhabit the area. We jumped onto a glass bottom boat and begun our tour around Shoalwater Bay, which was home to about  dozen islands all protected from humans.  This was the time I started to feel a little sick, by the time we returned, I was starting to feel really sick. The waters were a little choppy as the winds kicked up and to be honest, my see legs are as good as me putting on a pair of skates and trying to figure skate across a bowl of jelly…that’s being modest.

After we visited the sea lion colony on one of the small islands, accurately entitled seal island, we than headed back to the main land with the sun slowly setting on our backs, the birds retreating to their nest for the night and a small pod of dolphins inquisitively chasing us back into port, almost waving us goodbye with their fins. Time and time again I really realise how much I love nature and how important ecotourism’s role is in this world.

Now for my travel agent spiel; Penguin Island is about an hours south of Perth in Rockingham.  Boats leave every hour between 9 and 3, it will cost you $12 for a return trip or $17.50 which includes the Penguin Discovery centre. Also note that they close the island during winter as to protect the penguins during their main breeding seasons, also its bloody cold and wet at this time. You can walk to the island via a sand bar, however please note: a couple of people die every year doing this and unless you are a strong, comfortable swimmer, it’s not worth putting your life at risk. Penguin Island is well worth the trek down and don’t forget to take picnic lunch for a great afternoon or morning of swimming, penguins and pelicans.

Visiting Penguin Island and a link to a more Ecotourism approach of Penguin Island

Danny Devito Penguin Image….go on, you know you want too

Popularity: 36% [?]

Week 14 of The Perth Project

Once again the Perth Upmarket was in fine form on Sunday, showcasing some amazing talent from some very creative Sandgropers.

The market was held at the University of Western Australia in the ever impressive Winthrop Hall. The hall however was sporting some battle scars after terrible hail damage from the recent super-storm we had in Perth. The dramatic weather had smashed out most of the spectacular Lead-Light windows in the Hall, and a quick patch up was needed to cover the windows with Perspex to deem the hall safe enough to house the market. But after all that repair work, the show went on!

There was an impressive turn out to the Upmarket, with thousands of people flocking to over 100 stalls, thus proving the handmade scene in Perth is alive, well and thriving.  There were no dolls, tea cosies or doyleys in sight. However this free event offers  a whole range of funky clothing, photography, craft, baby wear, stationary, bags, jewellery, toys, gourmet food and of course coffee – it is hand-made heaven.

For the shoppers the endless unique and hand crafted items provide way too much temptation to pass up, and for the creative’s there was wall to wall inspiration to get the creative juices flowing. I was in my element, darting from one stall to the next like a kid in a lolly shop, whilst poor Peter tried to keep up with me without getting lost in the crowd of people, prams and stalls. I think at one stage there was a hit and run case with Peter and a pram – but hey that’s the thrill of the markets for you.

Our favourite quarterly market is back again on the 27^th of June, but we will be away getting hitched at the time, so it’s a 6 month wait for us till the next Perth Upmarket. If your in town, take the time to check it out, you purses will be lighter however you will be supporting this great developing scene of unique handmade goodies in Perth. The question is thou, will I survive the 6 month wait?

Read the directions and directly you will be directed in the right direction of the Perth Upmarket

Popularity: 35% [?]

Week 13 of The Perth Project

Friday night saw us check out Matsuri – a Japanese restaurant in the Perth city.

As Matsuri newbies, our first impressions of the restaurant were that it was very busy and popular, yet welcoming. Initially we found Matsuri recommended in the Perth Lonely Planet guide,  centrally located in the heart of Perth’s CBD, and boasting great Japanese cuisine, we just had to check it out.

Upon arriving, apart from some confusion about the name we had booked under (due to the very cute accent of the adorable front of house girl), we were promptly shown to a great table, seated by the front window and handed menus. At first being seated next to the floor to ceiling windows facing a busy city intersection was enough to make you feel a bit like a goldfish in a glass bowl, but as the night went on, we really enjoyed the view of the bussling Perth CBD on a Friday night.

The friendly wait staff, even though very busy were attentive to our every need and our order was taken shortly after being seated. It was quite entertaining to watch the wait staff literally run and bounce energetically up and down the stairs between the kitchen and the dining floor. Those guys must be fit! After making our selection from the choice of entrée’s and set menus, the entrée’s and drinks followed shortly after. Sapporo beer and Choya Umeshu (Plum wine) were our drinks of choice, and the Plum wine was a nice surprise. A much sweeter wine than I had expected, I found it a similar taste to that of a port or a muscato, but slightly syrupy in consistency. I found it complimented the Japanese food very well.

Our entrée’s were very tasty and well presented. The Kakuni (Pork belly in sweet soy sauce with mustard) was beautiful- tender, succulent and so flavoursome. We’ll definitely be back to sample that dish again!

The main’s followed a short time later – Pork Katsu Don set and the Assorted Tempura set. Both mains came with miso soup, salad and bean spouts, and the actual main dish was a good size for a hungry adult. The mains were beautifully presented with the Pork Katsu Don being served in a beautifully ornate Japanese chest box, which not only keep the meal hot, but made it look amazing!

Of course after the mains there was dessert, but being so full from dinner we could only manage one serving of ice cream between us. My spare dessert stomach must of been on holiday. Disappointing I know, but it was well worth the few spoons each.

With the bill at the end of the night coming in at under $70 for two of us including drinks, entrée’s, mains and a dessert, we were pretty pleased. It left us enough change in our pockets to head over to Burswood where we had a flutter on the Roulette table, and after a few hours of fun ended up walking out with enough winnings to cover dinner, our bets and more! Matsuri definitely comes highly recommended as a great place to eat out for a traditional Japanese set menu.

Quokka Rating

DÉCOR:  4 Quokkas out of 5

CUISINE: 4 Quokkas out of 5

AMBIENCE: 4 Quokkas out of 5

EXPERIENCE: 4 Quokkas out of 5

Matsuri Restaurant

Popularity: 6% [?]