The Perth Project

Week 17 of the Perth Project.

A British colleague I once worked with said “if the adventure is all about the journey than the destination must be really shit”, however in the case of our recent adventures to Dwellingup, I couldn’t help but disagree with him. After a couple of weeks of solo trips and N.M.I.A. (Niki Missing in action), we have joined forces again to fight of the evil stresses of the city and have hit the road for some nature, hiking and relaxation.

A couple years back I use to follow the World Rally Cars when they came to Perth for Rally Australia, and one of the locations they visited was the small town of Dwellingup, located about 100km south of Perth. They use to race through some of the most amazing forests in Western Australia and I was really keen one day to return. Today is that day! So Nic and I packed up are hiking gear and headed south for the winter. Our journey cuts through the Darling Range driving through spectacular eucalyptus forests and past pristine rivers. Along the way you have the opportunity to stop at the various dams that provide Perth with its drinking water – for some reason I had this urge to scull a martini, repeat my surname in a swab English accent and then hurl myself of the wall with a bungee cord attached to me feet and  an Ak37 in one hand. Times like this I think I should have been a Secret Agent!

Anyway, after I got 007 out of my system and dodging the look in Niki’s eyes ”saying this is the last time I’m ever taking you to a bloody dam”, we arrived in the small quaint timber town of Dwellingup. Dwellingup is just what you picture; small ornate cottage style houses, typical country style shops  and a small town atmosphere almost bordering on a hippy come bohemian feel. The fresh air cleaned out the cobwebs and the quietness was just what we were looking for. The town has heaps of heritage and if you’re into this type of tourism, then the small town walks will give you a great insight into the history of the place. The local tourism centre can provide you the maps and all the info you need.

However what Nic and I were here for was the outdoor activities and Dwellingup is a great place to do this. From climbing, canoeing, horse riding, camping, hiking, swimming or fishing, you can find it all here. We drove down to the Lane Poole Reserve, an idyllic park made for all of the above.  The park is divided down the middle by the serene Murray River and for us, the main destination for our hiking. Niki and I picked the Island Pool hiking track, a small loop about 20 minutes into the park. The hike took us along the winding banks and gave us the opportunity to watch wild ducks and other birdlife at play as well as sit by the river watching it slowly drift by. We even bumped into a few canoeists enjoying a lazy afternoon paddle.

After a short but enjoyable hike we sat down to eat some grub before heading home however not before hugging King Jarrah though – a large Jarrah tree which dwarfs everything around it. Dwellingup is a great little destination which I think alot of people often overlook on their way to Margaret River. Although I’m sure in the years to come its going to be another Denmark or Dunsborough.

By the way guys, I have a new blog coming up on Vietnam(talk about being a sucker for punishment) – more details coming soon!

Lane Poole Reserve

Popularity: 34% [?]

Week 15 of the Perth Project.

When you think of Penguins, I’m sure you’d agree with me that one of three images comes to mind. The first being of a small black and white flightless bird who enjoys playing on ice slides in Antarctica. Secondly a gender confused penguin who apparently has happy feet and thirdly, an ageing small fat man who likes to dress in a  penguin suit, and equally as mad as this may sound, to chase a man who dresses like a bat. Strange world we live in that’s for sure. Anyway with all these crazy penguin notions, it bring us to the 15th week of the Perth Project and  last week I had the opportunity to visit Penguin Island for the first time in the 20 years that I have lived in Perth. In fact, if I was honest with you all, I didn’t even know that we had penguins in this hot state of ours. Yet here I was heading off to explore this small island off Rockingham, about an hour south of Perth.

As part of my science degree in ecotourism, I get to try a range of exciting activities such as catching birds, handling reptiles and observing our black and white friends. Sadly Niki couldn’t make this one, so I was on my own… surrounded by 20 other students. We arrived down at the jetty at about 12.30 and boarded a small floating device, barely recognizable as a boat. It was more like an oversized tub, yet the captain was in good spirits and introduced the island. The best news I had heard all day, and it has crossed my mind that morning, was that there were no snakes on this island. I had to cusp my hand to my mouth to stop the big whopppeeeee; I’m not a great fan of snakes you see. As we approached this small island, you could hear and see the hundreds of birds that call this small green island home. It was incredible; I’ve never seen so many species of birds in the wild, or in one spot before. They were thriving on this protected island.

As we were a student group, we had a quick educational talk from the ranger about what ecotourism developments were happening on the island and a little about the history, for example lets talk toilets. The toilet systems uses an enzyme that breaks down the waste to a point where it’s safe to then disperse along the gardens. Apparently they did this one year and they had a crop of tomatoes grow from it…need I say more.

Penguin Island is home to 3 pelican colonies, which I was very excited about. I’ve always been fascinated with these birds since feeding them as a kid up in Kalbarri, and I was enthralled at the option to get up and close with them.  They are a large majestic bird that is incredible to see and even more amazing when there are hundreds flying and “talking” around you, almost intimidating. Apparently the pelicans only arrived a few years back, this was due to being displaced due to development in Mandurah.  After walking along the board walks and viewing these mighty birds, I headed along the beach on the west side. The beach was dotted with craggy rocks and was  currently being bombarded by dramatic waves on this overcast day. Fascinatingly, there was evidence of fossilized root systems from trees in some of the rock formations. Apparently the current beach of Western Australia extended for another 15km past Rottnest – who says global warming has never happened before?

After our walk and a quick lunch in the picnic area ( make sure to bring your lunch across as there are no shops on the island), we headed into the Penguin Discovery Centre. The attraction was home to about 12 penguins that were unfit to return to the wild. Known as fairy penguins, these penguins are the smallest species  of penguins.  Here is a  small little fact for you, they pick a mate for life. However they will pick another partner if one dies or they will divorce if one is a bad parent. The enclosure has a great viewing platform and it is well worth visiting during feeding times, as you get a really good spiel on the penguins and the islands. Unlike Philip Island in Victoria, the wild penguins that do come ashore at night to breed or sleep are not viewable to tourists. However if you look closely into lower shrubs during the day you might in fact see one sleeping or guarding their young ones.

Once we finished cooing the penguins, we had the opportunity to coo the sea lions and dolphins that inhabit the area. We jumped onto a glass bottom boat and begun our tour around Shoalwater Bay, which was home to about  dozen islands all protected from humans.  This was the time I started to feel a little sick, by the time we returned, I was starting to feel really sick. The waters were a little choppy as the winds kicked up and to be honest, my see legs are as good as me putting on a pair of skates and trying to figure skate across a bowl of jelly…that’s being modest.

After we visited the sea lion colony on one of the small islands, accurately entitled seal island, we than headed back to the main land with the sun slowly setting on our backs, the birds retreating to their nest for the night and a small pod of dolphins inquisitively chasing us back into port, almost waving us goodbye with their fins. Time and time again I really realise how much I love nature and how important ecotourism’s role is in this world.

Now for my travel agent spiel; Penguin Island is about an hours south of Perth in Rockingham.  Boats leave every hour between 9 and 3, it will cost you $12 for a return trip or $17.50 which includes the Penguin Discovery centre. Also note that they close the island during winter as to protect the penguins during their main breeding seasons, also its bloody cold and wet at this time. You can walk to the island via a sand bar, however please note: a couple of people die every year doing this and unless you are a strong, comfortable swimmer, it’s not worth putting your life at risk. Penguin Island is well worth the trek down and don’t forget to take picnic lunch for a great afternoon or morning of swimming, penguins and pelicans.

Visiting Penguin Island and a link to a more Ecotourism approach of Penguin Island

Danny Devito Penguin Image….go on, you know you want too

Popularity: 36% [?]

I’m  sorryyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy – imagine hearing that as you fall down an endless tunnel as it slowly fades into never land. Well that’s my sincere apologies for taking so long to write up week 10! Niki and I have been travelling around for the Perth Project and well, things got busy. Less than 99 days to the wedding, uni some where along the way got hard and well work…is shit – but hey that’s life and the Perth Project for ya! So here is week 10 for you, enjoy.

I’m Maverick and you guys can be Goose – ready? All together, “I have the need” ” The need, for a road trip”. Speed is overrated anyway. Niki and I decided for the last week of my summer holidays to pack up the tent and take our new car for a long spin. Niki had been asking to go down south for a while and if it gave me the chance to the escape the heat, I was up for it. In Perth, down south refers to the regions including Albany, Denmark, Margaret River and it’s surrounds. It’s a biodiversity hotspot and has heaps of gourmet products to keep your mouth watering all the way down the freeway.

After lazily getting up in the morning, buying a few essentials such as a blow up mattress (Learnt that lesson in Wales); we started our long 5 hour drive to Parry’s via Albany. The oldest settlement in Western Australia and originally the home to Australia’ whaling industry, Albany is a small city located along a magnificent bay. It is also home to the worse drivers in W.A., as we found out as we entered a roundabout to be cut up by the car next to us, then to be nearly taken out by an inward bound 4wd.  Driving straight through to our camp site, luckily escaping Albany with our lives, we were heading to this  amazing beach known as Parry’s – the first of two places that inspired me to become an ecotourism consultant (the other was Borneo). This place is perfect, I can’t possibly put into detail the impact this place has on me, however I’m going to give it a go – this small natural camp site is surrounded by beautiful old trees overhanging your campsite, which helps you feel like you in one giant bush cubby simirlar to what you might of built as a kid. It’s has only one entry and as you walk towards the entrance, your senses are engulfed by a beautiful bay of emerald, dotted with a small island and a white sandy beach waiting for you feet leave behind their footprints. Its one of those places that is perfect and here’s hoping development never comes knocking.

We set up camp, cooked us up a feast of frittata and hot tea, before walking along the rocky outcrop and watching the stars come up. Finally falling asleep to the noise of swaying trees and a gentle sea breeze.

The next day I awoke to the noise of crows attacking the left over’s of a dog’s breakfast – I’ve never wanted to say “Stone the crows, you bloody galah” more than…than.  I nudged Niki awake, who responded with giving me the evils (lovingly of course), and persuaded her that fishing was her life dream and that we should go out in the cold overcast morning to catch us some grub. In fact she took to the idea more than I thought she would and before I knew it we were casting a line and feeding the fish. We could see them, they could see us. It was like a western movie, the type of scene where the two cowboys stare each other down, then all of sudden they draw guns and one lies dead on the sand with the other guy standing over him saying “Ill be back”….hang on, wrong movie…. in any case it was Niki and I laying on the floor. For the love of god we could not catch one of these slippery little suckers. So after 3 hours of making sure the fish weren’t hungry anymore, we packed up our fishing gear and headed back into Albany for an expedition.

So we jumped into the car, got about  1k up the road and than it dawned on me that a  little red light was flashing at me. It was flashing at me in a rather annoying urgent type of manner….so as any male would do, I ignore it for another 1km, then it dawned on me, it wasthe bloody fuel light. We were over 25k to the nearest station and the middle of no where. In true Nic and Clay style, we decided to gun it and see if we could make it. As we pushed the car up massive hills, the light flashed a deeper red. Breaking down here wasn’t an option, mostly because I didn’t want to walk the hilly terrain to get fuel…2km from town Nic looked me the eye as if this was it, we weren’t going to make it. Could this be it, would we finally break down because I drive my cars too far on a tank of fuel, we had a few near misses when we crossed oz, then the moment arrived…

To be continued…

Popularity: 8% [?]

Your probably thinking, “Peter what’s up with the title, do you have some Spanish goat fetish you want to tell me  about?” Well actually I do and funnily enough it leads me to this weeks Perth Project. So I have this recipe for a Gazia Taria or for us boring English speakers, Cheesecake. It came in the book Movida Rustica which is a beautiful Spanish cook, slash travel, slash bio book. It’s delivered with beautiful photos, amazing recipes and the story of two men’s adventures through Spain to capture some of the best dishes. Funnily enough both the writers and I have something in common; we are both searching for something. Them, the Spanish lifestyle, food and culture. Me? Well I’m searching for Goat’s Curd!

Okay so here is my dilemma, I want to cook a cheesecake, a bloody good cheesecake if the picture is anything to go by. I went to Woolworths and managed to find most ingredients; cream cheese, lemons, sugar, brandy, yogurt to list a few. However no goats curd. It didn’t help that as I was standing in the supermarket looking for the curd and I actually don’t even know what curd is. All I could keep thinking of was Lemon curd and unless goats are now squirting lemon juice out of their bodies, I’m pretty sure it wasn’t what I was looking for. Just imagine that thought for a moment thou? Hmmm that would change the way we make lemon juice.

So, here I am at home hungry and in need of cheesecake – which leads me to the Perth Project. The Perth Project isn’t just attractions, its lifestyle, and its cool little places that we find along the way….that sell goat’s curd. So I’m doing something unthinkable, I’m stopping this week’s Blog half way through and am hitting the streets for funky gourmet food shops in search of goat’s curds. Ill then report back about the cool places and how my cheesecake went…

To be continued…

Popularity: 18% [?]